Historic Quebec

Quebec is a city with a split personality, literally and figuratively. One level (Lower Town) vigorously reaches out to the future, while the other (Upper Town), tenaciously clings to its romantic past.

The cradle of French civilization in North America, it’s like no other city on the continent. A showcase of French-inspired architecture, culture and national treasures representing a colorful 400-year history makes it the perfect fusion of North American know-how and Franco-European flair.

Language barrier? Not if you speak French. It’s more a matter of cultural differences than language in any case. But the bilingual duality of the city’s 638,000 residents, 95 percent of them French-speaking, fosters a reputation that welcomes visitors, whatever their language or place of origin. “Identify yourself as an American,” advises American-born, Canadian citizen Austin Whitten, “and the locals will cut you some slack for not speaking the predominant language.”

Founded in 1608 as a trading post by French explorer Samuel de Champlain, Quebec is the only walled city on the continent north of Mexico. In Vieux-Quebec (Upper Town), the old part of the city, are some of Quebec’s most enticing tourist attractions.

In this French patrimonial town made for walking, the best way to discover its spirit of joie de vivre is up close and on foot. An ideal focal point to begin an exploration of Quebec’s historical landmarks is from atop Cap Diamant overlooking the St. Lawrence River. It’s easy to find. Just look up, and you can’t miss its most famous landmark, the historic Fairmont Château Frontenac, with its distinctive turrets and copper-sheathed gables reaching high above the skyline.

Dufferin Terrace, the boardwalk in front of the Château, is the provincial capital’s favorite promenade, great for people-watching, with incomparable views of the mighty St. Lawrence River below. The nearby Plains of Abraham, known as Battlefields Park, offers a brush with history, its great green expanse famed as the site of the eventful battle of 1759 when control of Canada passed from the French to the British. Meandering along the Old Town’s maze of winding cobblestone streets, the visitor encounters a variety of outdoor cafés where it’s considered de rigueur to stop off for a croissant and café au lait.

No matter what time of year, Quebec is an ideal vacation destination. With modern high-rise hotels and quaint inns, excellent shopping, fine restaurants and small cafés, historical wonders and a long list of special events all year long, it’s a place for all seasons.

Nowhere is Quebec’s harmonious blend of past and present more apparent than in its appealing collection of hotels, 154 in number, that pass the rest-test with flying colors. From the major chains to a unique collection of boutique properties, travelers’ needs are more than met with top-notch accoutrements and service par excellence. Here’s a small sampling.

Perched high on a bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River, Fairmont Château Frontenac, the architectural signature of Quebec City, is also its only five-star hotel. With a storied history dating back to Dec. 18, 1893, the Château (as it’s referred to by the locals) claims to be the most photographed hotel in the world. Of its original 170 rooms, 93 had bathrooms and fireplaces, remarkable luxuries for the period.

Through the years the Château has hosted a variety of memorable events and an impressive array of political personalities, movie stars, and sports celebrities, among them Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Andrew, Princess Grace of Monaco, Chiang Kai-shek, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Winston Churchill, Charles De Gaulle, Alfred Hitchcock, Montgomery Clift, Anthony Quinn, Jane Seymour and many more.

The recent completion of a two-year, $12 million renovation of more than 500 of the Château’s 618 guestrooms includes five new Heritage Suites and a 46-room boutique hotel located within the Château on its upper floors. Rack rates start at $349 double.

A tradition of fine dining is upheld in Le Champlain, the Château’s main dining room overlooking the river. Afternoon tea is a popular, centuries-old pastime celebrated with fresh fruits, finger sandwiches, petits-fours and an extensive collection of fine teas. The casual Le Café de la Terrasse features an à la carte menu and themed buffet. Le Bistro offers sandwiches, pastas, salads and house-prepared pastries.

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